Singapore!

Massive shop

After Beijing I thought traffic couldn’t get any worse. I found Saigon that proved me wrong.

After China I thought girls couldn’t get any more beautiful. Taiwan taught me better but Singapore is not far behind either.

After Kuala Lumpur I thought cities can’t get any bigger or modern. Singapore proved me wrong.

I need to stop thinking it can’t get any better because it seems that it always does.

I think it’s safe to say that Singapore is one of the most modern places in Asia. However, I haven’t seen Shanghai or Hong Kong yet.

Here 90 percent of the people are business people and 90 percent of these have IPhones. First half day in the city was refreshing. I was just wondering the streets in my cheap worn clothes, and my damaged shoes with a strange smirk on my face as I roamed between the tall buildings. The hugeness of this city is impressive.

My first impression only lasted for that half a day. Soon I realized that people here are truly rich. Displays of fashion everywhere. Everything is too clean and boring. The subway is perfect. The people are too nice and considerate. Everyone having the same phone kills all diversity. I guess this is where Apple planted their brain washing machines.

In the city centre, right on the shores of the bay there is a massive Louis Vuitton store. It has it’s own building in the most expensive area of Singapore and maybe Asia. How many billions of dollars can there be in bags? It’s deviant to common sense. In Cambodia you can sponsor a child to go to school for a year with 250 dollars.

I don’t fit in in this place. Everyone is too happy. It depresses me. Plus… it’s too expensive to fall in love here…

Something new… at last!

Laos seen from Thailand (Nong Khai)

Just another noisy Internet cafe. Loud kids are playing Warcraft. At least it’s not Buddhist monks playing Counter Strike like in Laos. I put on my Modern Talking to cover all the noise and try to focus on what I have to do.

It’s been a full day in Bangkok but somehow I am in a bad mood. It’s been like this for a while now. Thomas Hardy wrote in one of his books that “happiness is but the occasional episode in a general drama of pain”. There is no drama here but it just feels like there is the occasional good day in a series of bad weeks.

Bangkok is truly crazy. Exactly what I needed at this point. It’s like a cold shower that wakes my numb mind and puts me on guard. Something new. I’m also living in something that resembles a union between a drug house and a brothel all wrapped up in an artistic cover. I’ve arrived two days ago early in the morning and the owner was passed out on the couch. I was told I couldn’t wake him up until 12 o’clock. That’s how it works here. I climb the stairs up to the dorm and see that this place hasn’t been cleaned in months. In the dorm people are sleeping profoundly and I’m pretty sure they’re recovering after a long night. On the rooftop there is someone sleeping in a tent. This place is cheap and that’s all I care. I drop my bag in the dorm and head on exploring the city.

This is something to raise my interest. I was kind of tired of the same boring guesthouses. I like Bangkok so far. Considering that I’m at the end of my trip and my budget is next to nothing I might just spend Christmas here rather than going on one of the expensive islands.

8 AM on the streets and it feels like most of Bangkok is still sleeping, just like the people in the guesthouse. I try to find an Internet cafe but I find out that they don’t open until 12. Maybe it’s just a lazy Monday morning, or how we Romanians put it: “even grass stops growing on Mondays”.

I should probably talk about Laos as I haven’t said a word about it. It was a very slow country and in most places you can only be… without doing much. It’s a country where every Tuc-Tuc driver can sell you weed. Cheap too. The only thing I got out of Laos was being eaten alive by bed bugs in a filthy guesthouse. With a itching body now I really regret not having a silk sleeping bag. Also my camera broke and I was forced to buy another one… which is new but I miss my old one.

Crossing into Thailand was quite interesting. How stupid do you have to be not to check ahead what kind of visa you need to enter the country? Everyone told me that Europeans get a two week stamp with no visa formalities or taxes. Once at the border I’ve discovered that Romanians need to apply for a visa on arrival, need to pay around 20 pounds and prove that they can leave the country within two weeks. That presumes showing evidence of a flight ticket. With no money, no photos and no flight ticket I had to spend more time at the border. The only problem was that the bus that I was on left without me but with my backpack. For two hours all I had was the clothes on me and the valuables in my day bag. I pay my taxes plus a little “extra” for lacking a plane ticket and grab a tuc-tuc for the bus station in Nong Khai to seek my lost belongings. If they don’t leave it there I’ll have to just change my flight and go back “home” sooner. Still, the tossed coin of fate says I’ll finish my trip on due time so I find my bag waiting for an idiot to come get it.

And the idiot certainly conforms…

Dog (Nong Khai) [I don't know why I put this picture up]

Even the cat is passed out (Bangkok Guesthouse)

Camping on a guesthouse (Bangkok)

The New and the Old (Bangkok)

Giant lizard in a public park (Bangkok)

News from the world

Un internet cafe intr-un mic orasel din Laos. E noapte iar vantul bate puternic. Frigul imi aminteste ca este totusi Decembrie chiar si pe meleagurile astea.

- Ce faci puiu? Ma auzi?

Raman blocat pentru un moment auzind vorbele astea venind de la tipul de langa mine. Incearca sa foloseasca Skype pentru a vorbi acasa. Nu stiu ce sa cred. Poate am auzit gresit… poate mi s-a parut… Casc urechile si aud din nou graiul romanesc.

Imi pierdusem orice speranta de a intalni un roman pe meleagurile astea. Auzisem de la unul sau doi calatori ca au intalnit romani in calea lor. Zvonuri despre unul ce calatorea spre nord in China, povesti rostite de straini despre palinca romaneasca… Nimic insa care sa ma pregateasca pentru o asa intalnire. Nici nu stiu cum sa-l abordez… pe ce limba… ce cuvinte sa folosesc? Incep sa rostesc cateva cuvinte in Engleza… nici nu stiu ce am zis sau de ce inainte sa schimb pe romana. E o situatie atat de ciudata si radem amandoi de ridicolul in care ne aflam: doi romani intr-o sala de internet in Laos.

Se fac introducerile si ramane sa mergem la o bere dupa ce incheiem socotelile cu online-ul. E roman dar a trait in Germania de cand era copil asa ca are un accent diferit. Ne este amandurora greu sa gasim cuvintele ptrivite. Lui pentru ca a trait in Germania toata viata, mie pentru ca nu mai stiu can am vorbit ultima oara in limba mea. Cred ca au trecut vreo trei saptamani. In curand devine un amalgam de cuvinte in romana, engleza, lao si alte limbi sau cuvinte pe care le inventam pe moment. Totusi ne intelegem perfect. Depanam povesti, vorbim despre locuri pe care le-am vazut, lucruri pe care le-am facut si planuri de viitor. Avem doar cateva ceasuri de stat impreuna dar e deja o legatura intre noi. O legatura intre doi romani pe care nu o poti avea in propria tara. Nici macar pe alte meleaguri unde mai sunt comunitati de romani. Aici esti singur! Esti cu adevarat singur printre straini. E o experienta unica sa intalnesti un compatriot. Doi romani cu zambetul pe buze prea departe de casa.

Din pacate nu putem calatori impreuna pentru ca avem trasee diferite ce nu pot fi schimbate. Ne luam ramas bun si spun ceea ce cred intotdeauna: lumea e un loc mic… ne vom mai intalni odata.

Farewell Cambodia!

Captain Ahab chasing Moby Dick (Mekong River)

Last night in Cambodia and I don’t really feel like writing. Staying in for the night to sort out some online issues. No beers as that will put me to sleep early, especially that I woke up at 4 am this morning. It was a good day as I took a bicycle and cycled in the dark for a while to reach Angkor Wat, the most famous temples in Cambodia. It is said that sunrise here is at its best. I’m not sure about that…

I would upload some pictures but my memory card caught a virus and it’s difficult to read it. I’ll find a solution at some point.

It’s been 11 days in Cambodia and my feelings about traveling finally got a bit better. The short story of Cambodia is that you can shoot a cow with a bazooka in Phnom Penh (350 $), you still get chased as a walking cash machine but the people here are a lot friendlier. I think I’ve managed to discover some things about me in these days when I’ve traveled alone…so in order to celebrate this I’ve made a spontaneous decision to go to Laos. Leaving tomorrow morning at 5 AM and reaching a place called “4000 islands” sometime in the evening. Sounds good to me. Laos was never in the cards but I am going to disappear in this country for about 10 days or so. I search for solitude once again and I might just spend a few days in a hammock.

I’ve never properly planned for this trip but now things have changed a little. I am doing 10 days in Laos, 2 weeks in Thailand and around one week in The Philippines, from where I should catch a flight back to London. I’ll be in Newcastle on the 16 of January. It’s a plan.

Maybe I’ll write some more about Cambodia as it deserves more attention but at the moment I’m to sleep deprived to care. I can’t remember when I had some proper rest in these 3 and a half months…

Vietnam Vietnam

Vietnam is done. It took me 17 days to build an impression of the place and I’m not sure it’s the correct and complete one but it’s my view of it. I’ve followed the traditional route for this country and went to the places where most backpackers go: Sa Pa in the mountains, Cat Ba island on the East coast (Halong Bay), Hue in central Vietnam, Hoi An (next to Hue) and Saigon  in the south with its Mekong delta.

Some good places to see if you are in the right mood and Cat Ba island is definitely a must. Mountains rising from the sea, fishing villages between them and nice abandoned beaches. Grabbing a kayak through these sea monsters was surely a good choice. Same day I had dinner with the locals on their fishing farm and after a few glasses of rice wine I’ve convinced myself to to go back to the harbor, kayaking in the dark. It raises all your senses as you can see but you cannot be seen by other boats.

Vietnam is a crazy place. You might find yourself approached by a toothless old lady in Sapa trying to sell you some bracelets, bags, hats, marijuana and weed. Why not? In Hue you might find a guy that tries to rent or sell you his motorcycle, his weed, his cocaine or his women. 10 dollars a night is cheap as hell if you’re into that crap.

These guys have everything. A lonely guy walking in the night is a clear target to be offered “services”. I didn’t really like the people in Vietnam. Everyone chases you or better said chases your money. A walking cash machine and everyone thinks they know the pin number. A country of contrasts were you meet the good and the bad… just take it as it comes.

The truth is I am tired. I think Vietnam made me tired, among other things. It’s not just in the body but also in the mind. Just over three months and I would say quite a few things have happened. I’m just starting to feel that I want to be somewhere else all the time. I cannot appreciate things as before and it makes me think it’s a waste of time and money.

Today I’ve moved to Cambodia. Quite different and I don’t know much about this country either. All I know is that you can pay in dollars and get your change half in dollars and half in Riel.

It’s hard to talk about future plans. I might just shorten my trip and skip India all-together. 10 days in Cambodia is less than recommended but you cannot always see everything you want. I always knew it would get to this and I just need to find something to get me out of this state. I went for a fresh haircut, a shave and a session at the gym… all for a fresh start in a fresh country I guess. Who knows if it will work. If it doesn’t you might just find me knocking on your door around mid January.

The good thing is I have found my next BIG thing after the “1000 km bicycle trip”. If I get to do it it will be huge but that’s in one or two years so there’s no point in talking about it now. It’s just an idea that nested in a dark corner of my mind ready to grow at the first ray of light.

I’m going to bed to recover yet after another sleepless night in a bus. I’m starting to believe I could just live in the bus all my life. People in Cat Ba live on water why couldn’t we do it in buses too? My previous journey was a day (24 hours) long and the average starts to grow fast… 10 hours here, 15 hours there, 24 hours somewhere and all you have are your thoughts. Not good for certain people.  It feels like being in prison… plenty of time to think about what you did.

I’m back!

Birds-eye view

Hello again my dear friends.

It’s been such a long time since I’ve managed to write something up here. I’ve disappeared for a while but I am still alive and kicking.

After my mad bicycle trip I took it really slow and went back to China,through Xiamen. 11 days in the cleanest city of China have not been wasted as I was in the business of saving souls. My own included. No details are revealed here as the best stories are never told.

    Later I’ve traveled to Guilin and from there I took a bamboo boat up the river Li to reach Yangshuo, a small city in the mountains. Probably the best scenery China has to offer. Good place to relax for 4-5 days, including BBQs with the locals and swimming (almost drowning ) ) in the Li river.

    After a quick stop in Nanning for a visa service I’ve taken the bus to Hanoi, Vietnam. Crossing the border by land is not like I thought it would be… no people with guns, no dogs sniffing around and no endless ques. You just go through without even having your backpack checked. Good first experience.

The truth is my heart aches at leaving China but the trip must go on. I’ve been on the road for roughly  2 months and 3 weeks and I need to start watching my budget before I get in trouble. Going south is cheaper and should do the trick. Reaching Hanoi can be quite a shock and I thought that after experiencing the traffic in Beijing it cannot get any worse. Well… taking a taxi in Hanoi is a heart stopping experience. Too many people, too many scooters and motorcycles and definitely no traffic rules. I thought we are going to hit somebody at any time. Crazy people, crazy city and insane taxi drivers.

Right now I am in the process of finding my way around Vietnam for about two weeks or so. I haven’t managed to stay in touch with anyone but please understand that this seclusion of mine had it’s purpose. This is part of travelling and sometimes you just want to be left alone and enjoy travelling. This doesn’t mean I’ve forgotten anyone and please don’t be upset for not sending news more often. I just needed some time for myself. Hope I get better at keeping in touch.

Let the Vietnam adventure begin!!!

Li river

Guess who?

Best swiming place

Updated map

Epilogue

Me

There’s only a shadow left of what I was. I’ve stripped down naked of all my feelings, all my fears and all my thoughts. I lay in front of you with nothing to hide.

I’ve done this trip for myself. To find out who I am, what I’m made of and what can I become. I haven’t planned for anything, I haven’t booked hotels in advance, I haven’t looked into the terrain, weather forecasts or best routes to take. I’ve used an old bicycle because I was looking for a breaking point within myself. How far can I go?

I’ve pushed the bike for ｍiles. I’ve faced the scorching sun and the floods from hell. I’ve battled a typhoon and won. I’ve been chased by dogs and went down a mountain with no brakes. I’ve slept on beaches, in schools, in hostels, at a fire department station and buddhist temples. I’ve met kindness, joy and some extraordinary people. I’ve seen an island full of life.

  Who are you? A question without an answer. Maybe this is something that we can only find out later when it becomes who have you been and what have you done. It’s something that we all should try to find out.

1066 kilometers on an used bike and all for a new library in rural　Romania. I haven’t managed to sell all the kilometers yet but something is better than nothing. At this point the size of the library doesn’t matter as long as I’ve tried my best. There is also a symbolic value to this action. I am encouraging people to read and I am showing that great things can be done as long as we have determination and courage. I am sending a message saying to THINK BIG and work hard. Anything is possible.

As for me… there is only one question on my mind: what’s the next big thing I can do? Until I find out I’ll be roaming around　Asia　for a while in search of new answers to old questions. I’ll keep raising funds and books for my library and when I go back to　Romania　I will finalize the project.  There’s no going back now.

The owner of a guesthouse in Taipei told me in her broken english: “Travelling open the eye and open the mind”. There is a lot of wisdom and philosophy in these simple words. It’s good food for thought as well and I encourage everyone to do their “1000 km trip” whatever that means for them. THINK BIG, take chances and NEVER slow down.

“Travelling opened my eyes and opened my mind”

                                               Vasile Gadinceanu

 

My gear

The road never ends

(Versiunea in limba romana)

Nu a mai ramas decat o umbra din ceea ce am fost. Mi-am dezvaluit toate sentimentele, temerile si toate gandurile. Stau in fata voastra gol, fara nimic de ascuns.

Am facut aceasta calatorie pentru mine. Sa aflu cine sunt, din ce sunt facut si ce pot deveni. Nu am planuit nimic: nu am facut rezervari la hotel, nu am analizat traseul, prognoze meteo sau cele mai bune rute. Am folosit o bicicleta veche pentru ca am cautat un punct critic in mine: pana unde pot sa merg?

Am impins la bicicleta zeci de kilometri, am pedalat pe un soare arzator si prin ploile iadului. Am infruntat un taifun si am castigat. Am fost alergat de caini si am coborat un munte fara frane. Am dormit pe plaja, la scoli, in hostels, la statia de pompieri si la temple. Am intalnit generozitate, extaz si niste oameni extraordinari. Am descoperit o iinsula plina de viata.

Cine esti? E o intrebare la care nu multi pot raspunde.  Poate ca este ceva ce putem afla abia mai tarziu cand ne intrebam cine am fost in viata asta, ce am facut? Este ceva ce trebuie sa aflam cu totii.

1066 de kilometri pe o bicicleta veche pentru a cumpara cartile necesare unei biblioteci inRomania. Nu am reusit sa vand toti kilometrii pe care i-am facut dar ceva e mai bun decat nimic. In acest moment dimensiunea bibliotecii nu conteaza atat de mult atat timp cat mi-am dat toata silinta. Este si o valoare simbolica in acst proiect. Pe langa faptul ca incurajez oamenii la cultura trimit de asemenea un mesaj: lucruri marete pot fi realizabile cu multa determinare si curaj

De acum eu am o singura intrebare care nu imi da pace: care este urmatorul lucru mare pe care il pot face. Pana gasesc un raspuns voi mai hoinari prinAsiapentru a raspunde si la cateva intrebari mai vechi. O sa continuicampaniade strangere de bani si carti pentru biblioteca in tot acest timp, dupa care ma voi intoarce in Romania sa finalizez acest proiect. Nu mai e cale de intoarcere acum.

“Travelling open the eye and open the mind” imi spune intr-o engleza stricata proprietara unei case de oapseti din Taipei. Este multa intelepciune si chiar filosofie in aceste cuvinte simple. As vrea sa incurajez cat mai multe persoane sa isi faca propria “calatorie de 1000 km”, orice ar insemna asta in viata fiecaruia. THIINK BIG, asumati riscurisi nu incetini niciodata.

“Calatoritul mi-a deschis ochii si mintea”

Vasile Gadinceanu

Coming home. (Day no. 14 / A paisprezecea zi)

Advertising in Hsinchu

(Versiunea in limba romana in josul paginii)

It’s the last day of the trip. I do my (un)usual 6 o’clock wake up and by 7  I‘m already packing. This hostel is right in the middle of the city and the window to my room is not really stopping the noises from outside. It felt like I was back in the tent again. I got some good sleep though but my body is not responding promptly to my commands. It’s numb and slow. One more day of effort and I’ll leave you alone, I tell him.

Breakfast and charity stuff keep me busy until ten o’clock. I’m not worried because I know I’ll reach Taipei in no time. It’s only 80 kilometers or so. The next city is Jhubei and it’s literally  connected to Hsinchu. I cannot tell where one ends and the other starts. It’s hot today and I’m really sweating. The road goes up and down and it’s quite fun. At least I don’t have to push the bike on this last day. The bike is squeaking from every joint and the gears got worse as well and they change randomly. I don’t really care anymore to be honest as long as it lasts to Taipei.

I’m going on road no. 1 which ends in the capital city so as long as I keep an eye on this one I can’t really get lost. By 12 o’clock I stop in Yangmei for lunch. It’s a proper restaurant and I get some good noodles. Add some bananas to that and I think I’m full. But not quite…I still linger for something sweet.

The first road sign with Taipei that I see says 54 km. Liar! Add 10-15 km to it and you’re getting closer to the truth. It’s one last push to the end of the trip. I think of all the things that have happened and I burst into laughter. I’m riding an old bike laughing. What madness is this?

Today I’m hungry. I don’t know why but I am. I keep stopping for chocolate, cakes, bananas, pearl tea and my first energy drink in this trip. Maybe I’m just greedy.

Navigating through these cities is more difficult and dangerous than on the open road between cities. My brakes aren’t helping either and when I saw that bus braking hard in front of me I had to put my foot down and jerk the bike the other way to avoid collision. It was a close one. I should have fixed my brakes but I couldn’t be bothered.

30 kilometers to Taipei, says another road sign. Taoyuan is my last big city before Taipei which is really busy but I make my way through.

20 kilometers to Taipei. I’m closing down on the beast and with time to spare. I’m trying to realize what I will achieve once I reach the capital. Over 1000 kilometers on an old bicycle. I still need to find out exactly how much I did.

I keep at high speeds although my knees hurt. WELCOME TO NEW TAIPEI CITY.

- Ah… you are here! a voice whispers in my ear.

- Not quite my imaginary friend! I still have 15 kilometers or so before I reach central Taipei.

Still it feels like arriving home. It’s like when you are away from home for a long time and when you come back you expect things to be different. But they never are. It is only you that has changed.

I soon have Taipei 101 in my sight (second tallest building in the world). I get on the road reserved for scooters and cyclists and try to keep on the safe side as much as possible. A valley appears and I speed up. At the end a junction and I don’t know the way. Left or right? One last choice in this trip. One last chance to listen to my gut. Right it is then.

A good choice as well as this brings me closer to the train station. A few questions and I’m on track. I wait at the traffic lights along pedestrians. They don’t know what I’ve done, who I am. They don’t know that I’ve got to the bottom of this island and into it’s soul. And it into mine. They don’t care.

There is no welcoming committee, no flowers, no songs, no celebration and no congratulations. It’s just me. As it always was.

I park my bike in front of the same hostel from which I left. It feels like it was yesterday. Foolishly I still hope to see some of the guys that have stayed here before I left. I am greeted by the unfriendly staff of the hostel. Nothing has changed. Only me.

Don’t look back

(Versiunea in limba romana)

Este ultima zi a calatoriei. Imi fac obisnuitul apel de la ora sase si pana in ora sapte deja impachetez. Hostel-ul asta e chiar in mijlocul orasului iar fereastra camerei nu opreste deloc zgomotele masinilor din strada. Pentru o vreme m-am simtit ca si cum as fi din nou in cort. Am dormit destul de bine insa dar corpul meu nu raspunde prompt la comenzi. Sunt amortit si incet. Inca o zi de efort si gata, imi zic.

Mic-dejunul si probleme legate de caritate ma tin ocupat pana in ora zece. Nu sunt insa ingrijorat pentru ca stiu ca voi ajunge in Taipei cat ai zice peste. Nu sunt decat vreo 80 de kilometri. Urmatorul oras este Jhubei si e practic legat de Hsinchu. Nici nu imi dau seama cand se termina unul si incepe celalalt. E cald astazi si transpir din plin dar drumul e placut cu mici urcusuri si vai. Macar nu trebuie sa imping bicicleta in ultima mea zi. Bicicleta scartaie din toate incheieturile iar vieteze se schimba automat in mod haotic. Nici ca imi mai pasa atata vreme cat ma tine pana in Taipei.

Merg pe Soseaua 1 care se termina chiar in capitala asa ca daca sunt putin atent nu am cum sa ma ratacesc. La pranz ma opresc in Yangmei unde mananc ce altceva decat taitei. mai bag niste banane in mine si cred ca sunt satul. Dar nu chiar… inca mai tanjesc dupa ceva dulce.

Primul panou pe care il vad si pe care scrie Taipei zice ca mai sunt 54 km. Un mincinos! Mai pune 10-15 km si apoi te apropii de adevar. E o ultima stradanie. Ma gandesc la toate pataniile de pana acum si izbucnesc in ras. Merg pe o bicicleta veche si rad ca prostu’. Ce nebunie mai e si asta?

Astazi imi este foame. Nu stiu de ce dar imi e asa ca opresc mereu pentru ciocolata, prajituri, banane, ceai si prima bautura energizanta din intreaga calatorie. Poate ca sunt putin lacom astazi.

Sa trec prin orasele astea aglomerate este mult mai dificil si mai periculos decat la drumul mare dintre orase. Nici franele nu prea ma ajuta iar cand am vazut un autobuz ca franeaza brusc in fata mea a trebuit sa imi implant piciorul in asfalt si sa trag dreapta pentru a evita o coliziune. Scap la mustata. Poate ca ar fi trebuit sa imi repar franele dar de acum ce poti sa ii mai faci?

30 de kilometri pana in Taipei, zice un alt panou. Taoyuan este ultimul mare oras mare inainte de capitala. Este insa un oras mare si aglomerat dar imi fac cale prin el.

20 de kilometri pana in Taipei. Ma apropii de fiara si nu mai e loc de scapare. Incerc sa imi dau seama ce o sa realizez odata ce ajung in Taipei. Peste 1000 de kilometri pe o bicicleta veche de oras. Inca mai trebuie sa aflu exact cat am facut.

Mentin viteze mari desi ma dor genunchii. WELCOME TO NEW TAIPEI CITY

- Ah… ai ajuns! imi sopteste o voce in ureche.

- Nu inca prietenul meu imagina. Inca mai am vreo 15 kilometri pana ajung in centrul orasului.

Simt cumva ca ajung acasa. E ca si cum te-ai intoarce acasa dupa o vreme indelungata si te astepti ac lucrurile sa fie diferite. Dar niciodata nu sunt. Tu esti singurul care s-a schimbat.

Nu tarziu zaresc Taipei 101 (a doua cea mai inalta cladire din lume). Trec pe drumul rezervat motocicletelor si biciclistilor si incerc sa stau cat mai mult pe marginea drumului pentru siguranta. Vine o vale si bag viteza dar la capat e o intersectie. Habar nu am pe unde sa o iau. Dreapta sau stanga? O ultima alegere intr-o lunga calatorie si o ultima sansa sa imi ascult instinctul. Dreapta sa fie.

E o alegere buna pentru ca ma aduce mai aproape de gara. Intreb cateva persoane si gasesc drumul exact. Astept la semafor alaturi de pietoni. Habar nu au ce am facut, cine sunt. Habar nu au ca am vazut in lung si-n lat insula lor si i-am vazut sufletul gol. Iar ea in schimb mi-a patruns in inima. Lor nu le pasa.

Nu e nici un comitet de primire, nici o floare de bun venit, nici un cantec de sarbatoare si nici o felicitare. Sunt doar eu… cum am fost intotdeauna.

Parchez in fata aceluiasi hostel la care am stat inainte sa plec la drum. Parca s-a intamplat ieri. Prosteste, inca mai sper sa ma mai intalnesc cu aceeasi oameni pe care i-am lasat aici. Sunt intampinat de personalul neprietenos al hostelului. Nimic nu s-a schimbat. Doar eu.

Day 13 – Closing in

People on the road

(Varianta in limba romana in josul paginii)

This fireman station is right on the main busy road that i am taking to go north. That means that all the cars, the trucks and motorcycles send a dead wakening sound straight into my tent. I get through the night half awake with the inexplicable 6 o’clock fully awake moment.

By 9 o’clock everything is packed and I say my goodbyes to the firefighters. Breakfast is quick and painless so I head for the road. And what better way to start the day if not with a plain, boring straight road. It feels like forever to get to Taichung port but at least I know that after that I switch to road no 1 maybe with a bit more diversity.

The weather for these past two days has been almost perfect for cycling. Really cloudy but still with high temperatures. Today it’s a bit windy from the front though. If I manage to get to Hsinchu or Jhubei by tonight then I’ll be within reach of Taipei tomorrow. The only thing is that today is my third consecutive day on the bike. Tomorrow will be my fourth. I need to find some energy from somewhere.

Everything is going well and I think I’m making good time. Some guys on scooters, going to Taipei, stop and ask if it’s ok to take pictures with me. Why not? I tell them where I’ve been and how long I’ve been cycling for and they literally applaud me. This is the kind of thing that keeps you going on the road. This is where I get my energy from. Also from pearl milk tea which I use to delay lunch by one hour.

The road is going up now and this brings back memories. I’m determined not to push the bike today. I stop in Xihu, a small town were I simply ask for food and I receive a plate full of something. It’s a mixture of chicken, soup, fish, seaweed, vegetables, egg and rice aside, It’s food… that’s all I care.

Every day I cycle, around noon or half way through the day my knees start to hurt. This bike is not for tall people so the position from which I’m cycling is affecting my joints. I try to fix the seat but it’s useless. I’m using the big garbage bag that I keep to cover my backpack when it rains, to make a sort of a cushion for my seat. It works for a while but the pain is still there. I’ll just have to take it.

Later on the road two more young people on scooters ask for some pictures. I should charge people for this if I’m so interesting. I keep pedaling on and I keep my head down. My eye sees a small red piece of paper on the road. Hard braaaake!!! That’s money. 100 NTD, roughly 2 pounds that will go into my charity box. I’ll turn that into one book.

Soon I have Hsinchu city in my sight. It’s around 4 o’clock and I lack the energy to go on. I decide to stop here for the night so I start looking for a hostel because there’s nowhere to camp in the big cities. . And this is one BIG city. I find a hostel but it’s poorly maintained and it looks like someones flat. At least it’s cheapish.

There are just over 80 km left to Taipei. I wish it was less for my last day but it is what it is. It’s going to be one last push. Not a big deal.

Autumn road

Leaves

Green rice

Small lake

(Versiunea in limba romana)

Statia de pompieri se afla exact langa drumul pricipal pe care il urmez eu sa ajung in nord. Asta inseamna ca toate sunetele de la masini, camioane si motociclete ajung exact in cortul meu. trec peste noapte pe jumatate treaz si imi fac rondul de la ora 6 ca de obicei.

Pana in ora 9 totul este impachetat si imi iau ramas bun de la pompieri. Iau un mic dejun rapid si sunt deja pe drum. Si cum e mai bine sa incepi ziua daca nu cu un drum drept si plictisitor? Imi pare ca dureaza o vesnicie sa ajung in portul Taichung dar macar stiu ca dupa asta se termina drumul si schimb pe numarul 1 care sper ca prezinta mai multa diversitate.

Vremea in ultimele doua zile a fost numai buna pentru pedalat. Desi a fost cald a fost de asemenea si innorat. Astazi e putin vant din fata. Daca reusesc sa ajung in Hsinchu sau Jhubei in seara asta atunci Taipei va fi la o aruncatura de bat. Singura problema este ca asta este a treia zi consecutiva pe bicicleta iar maine va fi a patra. Trebuie sa gasesc niste energie undeva.

Totul merge struna si cred ca scot un timp bun. Cativa adolescenti pe scutere, cu directia Taipei, ma opresc sa faca niste poze cu mine. De ce nu? Le spun povestea mea si cat am calatorit pana acum si incep sa ma aplaude, la propriu. Iata si sursa mea de energie. Plus un pahar de ceai cu lapte si tapioca pe care il beau ca sa intarzii pranzul cu o ora.

Drumul are pante in zona asta si imi trezeste amintiri vechi. Sunt insa determinat sa nu imping la bicicleta astazi. Ma opresc in Xihu, un orasel unde ma asez la o masa in restaurant si cer pur si simplu de mancare. Fara indicatii de nici un fel mi se aduce o farfurie plice de ceva. E o amestecatura de pui, supa, peste, alge, legume, ou si orez aparte. E mancare… asta conteaza.

In fiecare zi pe bicicleta, in jurul pranzului sau cand ajung pe la jumatatea zilei, incep sa ma doara genunchii. Bicicleta asta nu e pentru oameni inalti iar saua e ridicata la maxim. Incer sa repar saua rupta dar fara folos. Fac o mica perna din sacul de gunoi pe care il folosesc sa imi acopar rucsacul dar nici asta nu merge prea bine. Tot ma doare fundul si va trebui sa ma resemnez.

Mai tarziu pe drum alti doi tineri vor sa faca o poza cu mine. Ar trebui sa le cer bani daca sunt atat de interesant. Pedalez monoton pe soasea cand vad cu coada ochiuliu o bucata mica de hartie rosie pe sosea. Franaaa!!! Astia sunt bani! 100 de dolari taiwanezi, ceea ce inseamna in jur de 2 lire englezesti. Merg direct in contul bibliotecii.

Pe la 4 ajung in Hsinchu dar nu mai am energie sa merg mai departe. Hotarasc sa ma opresc aici si incep sa caut un hostel pentru ca nu ai unde sa iti instalezi cortul in orasele mari. Iar asta ESTE un oras mare. Gasesc un hostel dar e cam jalnic si arata ca apartementul cuiva. Macar e mai ieftin.

Mai sunt in jur de 80 de kilometri pana in Taipei locul de unde am inceput aceasta calatorie. As fi vrut sa fie mai putin pentru o ultima zi dar asta e. O sa fie un ultim efort. Nu-i mare scofala!

Playing with fire (Day no 12 / A doisprezecea zi)

Fireman

(Versiunea in limba romana in josul paginii)

An email I’ve received kept me in Taisi for half a day. I was thinking I should just stay for another night here but by one thirty I had lunch and went on the road. No laziness is allowed. If I pedal for five hours I’ll still do a lot of kilometers.

It’s back to road 17 but I need a bit of diversity. Same road different day. It’s also quite cloudy and it makes me doubt my decision of leaving. I don’t really want a wet day and I also know I need to push it to make these five hours worth.

I keep a good rhythm as I had some good rest last night. Still, as usual I woke up around six in the morning for no reason. Maybe it’s a new lifestyle I need to embrace. Wake up early, go for a jog, come back, have shower, coffee and breakfast and go to work. Isn’t that a modern life style?

Road 17 is really straight but I keep focused on the job I have to do and soon I’m past Mailiao. I keep counting the distance and the time I’m doing. 1h=20 km. I try not to stop and I find myself immersed in my own world, in my own thoughts. My world is separated by a white line on the road. On the right side is safety. If I stay there my world exists. I focus on the sounds of the bicycle. A squeak here, a friction there plus a gasp of my own. I soon find a rhythm in everything. It turns into a symphony between man and machine. Anything will do as long as don’t fall asleep on this boring road.

Traffic lights try to stop me but it’s futile: I’ve got a mission. There’s also a secret I haven’t revealed about my bike. this is the first prototype to include an automated gear box. it activates with every bump I take, switching to a lower gear. I’ll apply for a patent as soon as I get back.

I don’t stop in any towns because there is not much to see. Time passes and I keep at higher speeds than yesterday. I reach an area of the road that is under construction and it looks just like a beltway in Bucharest. For a moment the lack of oxygen in my brain makes me feel that I am back in Romania cycling towards the airport. Ah… sweet madness.

By 5 o’clock do 65 km and decide to stop in Shenggang. I ask the first guy that I think can speak English about a police station and he takes me there. They don’t really help me though so we try a couple of different places to camp. That’s how it goes most times. You cannot find a place from your first try. He tells me there are no foreigners around and I’m the first one he sees here and becomes friends with. He seems really happy and excited.

I end up setting my tent at the Fire department station. They’re nice and let me take a shower and use their computer. I fix my tent as well with some duct tape so I have a “house”. After dinner I get to take some photos with the fire trucks. I’m the only foreigner to ever camp here I guess.

Street market in Shenggang

Straight road

We are all cyclists

“Centura Bucuresti”

City agriculture

Sefu’ pompierilor

(Varianta in limba romana)

Un email primit m-a tinut in Taisi pentru o jumatate de zi. Ma gandesc sa raman peste noapte aici dar pe la 1 jumate sunt deja pe bicicleta. Nu e loc de lene si daca pedalez pentru vreo 5 ore tot fac ceva kilometri.

Ma intorc pe Soseaua 17 dar am nevoie de putina diversitate. Acelasi drum de rahat dar intr-o alta zi. E de asemenea innorat si picura ceea ce imi pune la indoiala decizia de a pleca. Nu vreau sa am inca o zi uda si trebuie sa fortez nota ca sa fac sa merite astea cinci ore pe drum.

Mentin un ritm bun mai ales ca am avut parte de odihna noaptea trecuta. Ca de obicei insa, ma trezesc pe la 6 dimineata fara motiv. Poate ca este un nou stil de viata pe care trebuie sa il accept: ma trezesc devreme, merg la o alergare de dimineata, fac un dus, iau micul dejun si o cafea si merg la munca. Nu este asta stilul de viata modern?

Soseaua asta este extrem de dreapta dar ma concentrez asupra pedalatului si trec imediat de Mailiao. Tot calculez distanta pe care o parcurg intr-o anumita perioada de timp iar rezultatul este 1h=20km. Incerc sa nu ma opresc deloc si ma cufund in universul meu, in gandurile mele. O lume separata doar de o linie alba pe marginea soselei. La dreapta e linie este siguranta iar acolo este locul unde trebuie sa raman. Ma concentrez asupra sunetelor produse de bicicleta. Un scartait aici, o mica frecare acolo plus o rasuflare de-a mea se transforma in curand intr-o simfonie a omului si a bicicletei. Orice e bun atat timp cat ma tine treaz.

Semafoarele incearca sa ma opreasca dar e in zadar pentru ca eu am o misiune de indeplinit. Este de asemenea un secret legat de bicicleta pe care nu l-am impartasit. Detin prima bicicleta din lume cu o cutie de viteze automata, care se activeaza la fiecare groapa sau denivelare, trecand intr-o viteza inferioara. O sa aplic pentru un brevet imediat ce ajung in Europa.

Nu opresc in nici un oras pentru ca nu e mare lucru de vazut. Timpul trece si reusesc sa mentin o viteza mai mare decat ieri. Ajung pe o portiune de drum in constructie si jur ca arata exact ca centura Bucuresti cand am fost eu ultima data pe acolo. Pentru un moment simt ca sunt in Bucuresti pedaland catre aeroport. Asta e un inceput de nebunie.

Pana in ora cinci fac deja 65 de kilometri si decid sa ma opresc in Shengang. Primul tip pe care il vad si care cred ca vorbeste engleza este intrebat de o sectie de politie si chiar ma duce acolo. Nu prea ma ajuta insa si trebuie sa mai cautam in cateva locuri un spatiu de camping. Asa se intampla de cele mai multe ori pentru ca nu poti nimeri un loc din prima. Tipul imi spune ca sunt primul strain care da pe aici si sunt singurul care ii si devine prieten.

Ajung sa imi instalez cortul la Sectia de Pompieri unde sunt amabili si ma lasa sa fac un dus si sa le folosesc computerul. Reusesc sa imi repar si cortul cu banda izoler asa ca am si o “casa” pentru noaptea asta. Dupa cina urmeaza o sedinta foto cu seful pompierilor si masinile de pompieri. Sunt primul roman care a campat aici vreodata.